New Zealand - South Side

11th-26th January 2023

Chapter 1 - Reunions and Camping

Perhaps the most poignant moment of our trip so far occurred just moments after touching down in Queestown. As we disembarked the plane on the way to baggage collection, we walked passed a lovely looking family. A neatly groomed man, a sweet wife and a gorgeous little baby. They were beaming at us. “Surprise!”.

I did a double take. It’s been nearly 5 years since I’ve last seen my brother Jonny. Back then we were both single and in need of some fashion advice. Now here he was, in real life, with the most gorgeous family. Of course we had met on facetime, but it just doesn’t translate in quite the same way (and with deep fakes and all, you’re never quite sure if someone is pulling a fast one). Beth, Jonny. Ami, Ben. Ben and Beth, baby Olivia. It was just wonderful. We piled into their car and made our way to their home for a cuppa and some serious catching up.

The weather seemed to celebrate this glorious reunion and the next 2 weeks were wall to wall sunshine. Hot in the sun, cool in the shade and never too far from a refreshing mountain breeze. Perfection.

Jonny’s camping company was far more impressive. He sent us off with a car full of camping goodies – a gas bbq, not one, but two tents, salt and pepper, tea towels, washing up liquid! We set off to try camping again. The comparison couldn’t have been more stark. We headed to Moke Lake, set up our camp by the picturesque lake and braiied lamb chops as the sun cast majestic shadows across the valley painting the sparse clouds coral pink.

When camping in New Zealand, it is very easy to develop neck pain. This is not due to the sleeping arrangements, but rather due to constantly looking around at the impossible scenery. We spent a couple of nights at Moke Lake before heading up to Wanaka. Wanaka is the younger, cooler brother of Queenstown with a laid back vibe and understated good looks. We camped at a busy holiday park called Glendu Bay. This was clearly where locals spent their holidays…and money. Each site was filled with gargantuan caravans, jacked up jeeps, overpowered speed boats and all the toys/fishing equipment you could squeeze on. Our little tent looked rather humble in our enormous plot! We had a sunset swim and took it all in. In the distance you could see a glacier, all around you lush rolling hills and immediately in front of you a glassy lake. It was like squeezing Mont Blanc, the lakes of Canada and the hills of the Gower all into one frame!

Our final night camping was spent in Lake Hawea (Kidds Bush Reserve) which is set amongst the most beautiful cattle farm you'll ever see. It’s worth going here for the drive alone. Another night spent camping next to a pebbly beach and a tranquil lake and a sunset that seems keen to show off it’s entire repertoire; having gone through all the oranges, pinks and reds, begins on purples and blues, it lasted until about midnight! This dreamy haze was abruptly cut off just before 5 am by what I can only assume is the noise a cow makes when it is castrated. Tickled by the stark contrast I lay in bed chuckling and looked ahead to the next chapter.

Chapter 2 - Family Time

Family Wattley descended en mass the next week. Mum had booked a beautiful spot overlooking Lake Wakatipu and we enjoyed a week of Wattley family fun. Baby Olivia and Abigail found each other fascinating and spent days on end poking each other’s faces and laughing at each other. There were long dinners on the terrace, girls’ spa days, trips to deer park heights, cherry picking, wine tasting and jet boating (all in a day's work!).

To celebrate Jonny and Ami’s wedding dad had arranged a belated wedding celebration. We visited Coronet Peak and stood on the spot the two had tied the knot. Later that week, dad had arranged a mini wedding reception. We boarded the TSS Earnslaw, an old Victorian steamboat, and headed over to Walter Peak Farm Station (Jonny’s old workplace) for a very special lunch. It is difficult to describe Walter Peak. I suppose it’s a bit like Wisley Gardens, meets Petersham Nursery, on a sheep farm (I don't know if that helps any of you!). After having eaten our body weight in fine dining, we watched a thoroughly enjoyable farm show in which the stubborn sheep didn’t want to be shorn. Soon the sheep show had turned into ‘Silence of the Lambs’ and blood was everywhere. Baby Abigail could be heard laughing over the crowd of onlookers and like a little Caesar, this his was clearly to her liking!

We bid farewell to the family after a wonderful week together and everyone made their separate ways for their own NZ adventures. We made a quick visit to Milford Sound (a fjord, not a sound, as it turns out!) before preparing for the next chapter.

This was a tale of two halves, but despite all the beauty and wonder, the highlight for me was seeing my brother so happy, settled and full. And no amount of rain can put a dampener on that.